Lake Balaton has been experiencing a real renaissance in recent years, as both domestic and international tourists have found their way back to the "Hungarian sea". Of course, one can still associate Lake Balaton with lángos—a deep fried dough with cheese and sour cream topping—, endless train rides or even plastic-chair buffets, but we have to admit that there’s so much more to it. The many exciting places to visit in the Balaton highlands, combined with the beautiful scenery, are more than enough to make you want to visit the area for a weekend or two—or even longer!
In our selection below, we’ve included a number of places with a special atmosphere that will captivate you and evoke feelings associated with carefree summers, deep conversations and happy moments. Whether you’re hoping for a bottle of delicious wine, a spectacularly prepared barbecue, or the atmosphere of a spontaneously organised festival, we’ve got tips galore!
The article originally appeared in issue four.
Szászi Vineyard
It's always a good idea to visit the vineyard of Szászi Birtok, tucked away in the village of Hegymagas, not only thanks to the fabulous views of Lake Balaton, the mountains and the vineyards, but also because it feels like coming home. In a cosy atmosphere, sitting under the walnut trees or on the terrace, it’s the perfect setting for wine tasting—why nor try a glass of Kéknyelű or Olaszrizling? If you're really lucky, you can also catch Endre Szászi, the estate’s founder, talking about the grapes and wines with real enthusiasm. In a moment, you’ll understand that the most important factor behind the business is the family running it. As soon as Endre, the soul of Szászi Birtok, started to work with wines more seriously, he decided to travel around Italy. It was there where he first encountered the method of selling bottles via storytelling—by explaining the story behind the wine cellar and winemaker, during wine tasting sessions. After returning home from his "study trip", he started to implement the processes he had witnessed abroad, and became one of the first in the country to start organic farming, for which to this day, he is a strong advocate. Nowadays, not only Endre and his wife are involved in the business, but their children too, and they also treat those working at the vineyard like family.
Szászi Vineyard | Web | Instagram
Káli-kapocs
If you've never been to Mindszentkálla before, you'll probably expect to stumble upon a typical Hungarian pub, and as soon as you reach the village centre, lo and behold, you will. However, we’re not talking about just any old kind of pub, you’ll find yourself in a classic place with no clichés. Káli-kapocs pub is exactly what you’ll be looking for throughout Lake Balaton: locals and tourists, cyclists, families on holiday and festival-goers from the surrounding area can all get along while having a good chat over a cold spritzer or a beer. The interior and exterior of the place is as eclectic as the audience and the programmes on offer, but these are what makes the place authentic.
Káli-kapocs | Instagram
Pegazus
At first glance, you might feel tempted to call the Pegazus restaurant, café, and bar in Szentbékkálla a ruin pub—which in itself would be intriguing being so far from the capital—but we would rather describe it as a community space. Concerts and art programmes, a light painting show, and parties until dawn can all be found at Pegazus. The experience is further enhanced by the aromas from the barbecue, a spectacular counter filled with smoked meat and vegetables from local producers.
Photos: András Zoltai