It is undeniable that every surprise has a certain magic to it—sometimes it’s good to step out of your comfort zone and experience something completely unusual. However, finding a balance is essential, which is why the value of places where everything is familiar, where are greeted warmly, and where it’s just good to be is increasing. The Lujza & Koriander has not only won the hearts of the people of Vác, but also those of Budapest and the surrounding area, and for good reason.
Every story has a beginning, but that of the Lujza & Koriander is like a recipe: it’s made up of several ingredients, seasoned with a dash of a few lucky alignments. Levente Pajor had been in the real estate industry for over a decade, and he also renovated and ran Airbnb apartments back in the days when the sector was booming. Levi and his sister, Heni Lelkes, decided as children that they would one day own a confectionery shop, but as the years went by, they drifted further and further away from that dream. However, along came Levi’s wife, Dorottya Hámory, who fell in love with cooking and gastronomy, on the path towards her own physical recovery. She began learning and finding inspiration at a relatively young age, at one point hosting dinners in an apartment restaurant, but she also worked as a manager at Chez Dodo and even cooked for guests at a retreat center in Costa Rica for two months.
After completing a training course at The Institute for Integrative Nutrition’s Mission, she incorporated a holistic approach to her cooking even more, but for a long time, she lacked a real platform to showcase her knowledge. During a trip to Thailand in 2017, Levi and Dorka came up with the idea that it would be nice to give back some of the kindness they had experienced during their travels in Southeast Asia with a guesthouse of their own.
The Lujza & Koriander opened on 1 July 2020, in the midst of the pandemic, just as the restrictions were loosening. They did a complete renovation, but instead of an apartment restaurant or café, it became a guesthouse with two floors, 8 guest rooms, a terrace, a lovely garden, and a spacious guest lounge. The whole design, the natural colors, and the peaceful atmosphere reflect their taste, as do the simple room furnishings. Two of them overlook the garden, and six overlook the Danube, so even though we are in a relatively busy part of Vác, it’s easy to find tranquility here. The unusual name was also their brainchild, as Lujza is Heni’s childhood nickname and coriander is Dorka’s favorite herb. Besides the naming, they also played a vital role in creating the concept: Heni is the founder of the Ribizli Édesműhely, where the cookies and desserts come from, while Dorka is responsible for the menu and food design. And, of course, let’s not forget Levi’s passion for coffee or the wealth of professional experience he has gained on this front. It was a winning combination for instant success.
And people kept coming. From Budapest or Vác, thirsting for sunshine, kind words, and delicious flavors after six months of lockdown. And what they received at Lujza could best be described as loving care—not only the kind, and genuine service but also the owners’ constant presence and the way the food was prepared guaranteed that what people got was Hospitality with a capital “H”. Everything counts, nothing is put on the plate in its original form, i.e. the ingredients are given a light marinade, dressing, or some heat treatment. The popular hummushka, for example, combines homemade hummus and shakshuka with crunchy diced vegetables, tahini dressing, and plenty of herbs. I particularly liked that the carrots were finally not grated or fried to a crisp, but put in the cream in fresh, bite-sized cubes. Of course, you can also opt for a mozzarella-filled, lightly mousse-flavored omelet, a buttermilk savory waffle with silky green pea purée, as well as a seasonal sandwich with local delicacies or oatmeal pancakes with homemade hazelnut spread and tart fruit. They also have a weekly menu, or board offer, which always consists of a soup & sandwich combo and a one-pot meal inspired by their travels.
They buy what they can from local producers. Bread, for example, comes from a bakery in Göd, called the Vekni Műhely, but eggs, dairy products, and meat also come from a trusted source, the latter from Tibesz-Húsbolt. The grinder is stocked with beans from their good friend, Maran roaster, and the fridge is packed with Juiceline juices, but if they prefer a bigger brand version of something (like chai), their personal, foreign favorites would get on the menu.
And we haven’t even talked about the cakes yet! The fridge is bursting with Heni’s homemade delicacies such as Ischler or Swedish almond cake, rich pies, crispy biscuits, and cream dessert cups. The fact that I actually couldn’t even browse the selection properly is just a testament to their popularity, as so many people came in asking for their favorite desserts that by the time I noticed, almost everything was gone. Nonetheless, I tried three free-from treats: the banana bread, vegan raspberry brownie, and almond biscuit were all distinctive in taste, not too sweet (in fact, I could taste a pinch of salt in them), and amazingly juicy.
You can discover the owners’ fingerprints in every element of the restaurant—and in the way they bring local businesses together as key members of the local community when it comes to a common cause or ideas for revitalizing Vác. In the meantime, they have also achieved the Heroes of Responsible Dining’s Sustainable Restaurant certification, of which they are very proud. Of course, they may run out of an ingredient or space, but they fix everything immediately. It’s no coincidence that some people visit Lujza & Koriander several times a week, or only on Wednesdays but always at the same hour, ordering the same things, in the same order. It is this feeling of peace and homeliness that makes Levi, Dorka, and Heni’s love project so special. I say, more of this and the world will be a better place!
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